Suez Canal to Med

We left Abu Tig Marina with a whole bunch of other sailboats heading up to the Suez Canal. The weather forecast showed a small but favorable window. What should have been a 2 day trip turned into 4 days! The sail started beautifully, but soon we encountered gale force winds right on the nose and rough seas. Many of the boats decided to tuck into small bays along the Straits of Gubal, but we continued to forge ahead. It was slow going and our friends on Duetto suffered some minor damage. We dodged cargo ships, seismic survey vessels, oil rigs, and coral reefs. We finally sailed into Port Suez weary, crusted with salt, and looking forward to our Suez Canal transit.

The Suez Canal has a fascinating history starting with the ancient Egyptians. The pharaohs attempted to build a passageway from the Nile River into the Red Sea, but without much success and the project was abandoned. The Romans followed suit, but found that their canal would all too often fill up with silt. In the 18^th century, the French recognized the importance of a sea route from the Med to the Red Sea. In 1869, the Suez Canal was completed connecting the Red Sea to the Mediterranean Sea via the Bitter Lakes. The French and British maintained ownership of the canal for close to 100 years. Finally in 1956, the Suez Canal was relinquished to Egyptian control. Today, the Suez Canal stretches out for 87 miles and is transited by over 20,000 ships per year.

We spent 2 days in Port Suez preparing for our canal transit. Exit Only was measured inside and out to determine the cost of the transit. Finally with a pilot to guide us through the canal, we were off. We have heard horror stories about pilots sent aboard yachts -- groping, smoking, demanding baksheesh, deliberately damaging the boat … etc. We were lucky with our first pilot. He did an excellent job, taking us straight to the half-way point of Ismailia.

How shall I describe the Suez Canal … let me count the ways. Let’s just call it a “ditch in the desert.” That is literally all it is. There is sand stretched out for miles all around the canal. Occasionally, we would see the burned out remains of a tank or building. The canal was actually closed for a number of years during the 1970’s after the 6 Day War with Israel. There is new construction everywhere, with new towns springing up on the Sinai side. Ismailia feels like a cross between colonial Europe and exotic Egypt. There are grand old homes, wide avenues and palm tree lined streets paired up with impressive mosques, towering minarets, and veiled ladies. We spent one week in Ismailia re-provisioning the boat, hanging out at the Internet Café, and celebrating the end of the Red Sea with other yachties.

Our second leg up the Suez Canal was not as pleasant as the first one. We thought we had a great pilot right up until the very end. It is customary to present your pilot with a tip and small gift for his work. Cigarettes seem to be the preferred commodity. We gave him what would be the standard tip and then he began to pout and refuse to get off the boat when we pulled into Port Said. Dave kept telling him to get off the boat, but he just sat right back down. He demanded more cigarettes for the pilot boat who was picking him up. Donna ended up giving them a very nice bar of chocolate and a t-shirt. Finally, after about 15 minutes he relented, I guess realizing that he wouldn’t get any more out of us. He jumped into the pilot boat and we headed out into the Med.

Med to Israel

I can’t believe that we are finally in the Mediterranean! We have definitely earned it after 2½ months sailing up the Red Sea! We have seen some amazing things in the last few months, and now I am looking forward to seeing Israel, Cyprus, Turkey, Greece, and so much more. It only seemed fitting that as we sailed out into the Med, we were greeted by a large pod of friendly dolphins that happily accompanied up for 1 hour. They would swim alongside Exit Only, ecstatically launching themselves out of the water. Ah, isn’t life grand!

The sail to Israel was uneventful, just the way it should be until we were about 40 miles off the Israeli coast. We were contacted by the Israeli Navy who told us that we would have to change   course. It made no real sense at all. There was absolutely nothing out there. (We found out later that they did not want us sailing near to the Gaza Strip) Then started the endless and unchanging questions … where are you from, what is the name of your boat, how many people on board, have you thrown anything into the water, what was your last port of call … Our poor friends on Duetto had a rough time. The Israeli radioperson must have been new to the job. She kept asking the same questions again and again, then got confused. She could not figure out how to pronounce the name of the boat (Dito, Dito … she would call over the radio). When Geoff on Duetto would ask, “Are you calling me?” she would reply, “No.” Craziness. She asked what their homeport was (Auckland, NZ … she didn’t know where that was) and how long ago they had left (3 years ago) which just boggled her mind. We were all tired and frustrated, and then we were told that we had to wait 12 miles offshore before being allowed to enter Israeli waters. A large PT boat roared out to check us out. Guess we must have looked OK, because they finally let us in to Ashkelon. After 4 hours of waiting, we were beginning to wonder if we really wanted to come into Israel. Once inside the marina, we were greeted by Israeli security who did a search of the boat for weapons or explosives (they must have been concerned with all the Muslim countries we have visited in the last 4 months) and then a thorough review of our passports and questioning (did anyone give you anything, why did you come to Israel, how long will you stay, do you know anyone here …).

Israel Adventures

Welcome to the Holy Land. We are based out of Ashkelon Marina, a mere 12 km north of the Gaza Strip. Never have I seen such a militarized country. Military service is mandatory for both men and women. Everywhere you look there seem to be 18 year olds running around in hip-hugging camfies with a AK-47 casually slung across their shoulders. Now I think I understand a little better why the radioperson acted like she did. She probably was no more than 20 years old, chewing gum, twirling her hair, and thinking about what to wear for tomorrow’s date. It seems like we are strafed by fighter jets, helicopters, and C-150’s a few times a day. They seem to keep a really close eye on the Palestinians by keeping them cordoned off in the West Bank (which is being whittled away by Jewish settlements) and the Gaza Strip. Being here has provided a little better insight to this conflict which has lasted for so many years.

But I don’t want to give the impression that we did not have a good time here in Israel. We had a fabulous time, touring the country from north to south. We did a whirlwind tour by car visiting ancient ruins, beautiful desert canyons, bustling cities, sites of religious significance … and so much more. I don’t know how I will possibly fit everything in! So let’s go down the list.

Jerusalem -- We rented a taxi with some friends, Duetto and Cygnus II, and headed for this amazing city. It was our first chance to see the Israeli countryside. We were quite impressed by how they have transformed what had been dusty and dry into a veritable oasis. Vineyards, orchards of every fruit imaginable, fields of wheat and sunflowers … From the rolling coastal plains we crossed into the mountains. Jerusalem sits high in the hills. The old city is surrounded by an ancient wall, some of which dates to the time of Christ. Surrounding the old city is the new city with its shopping centers, hectic traffic, sidewalk cafes, and tightly packed neighborhoods. Our taxi driver rarely left Ashkelon, so we ended up getting a little lost and he had to ask for directions. We finally made our way to the Jaffa Gate, the main entrance to the old city.

When we arrived in the Old City, everyone seemed to be just waking up. None of the shops or restaurants were open. The streets were mostly empty. A few hours after walking around, everything changed. Tourists were out in force. Our first stop was the Tower of David (nothing to do with King David) which was built by King Herod of Biblical fame and then reinforced by Saladin. The walls surrounding the old city of Jerusalem were built by Saladin to protect the city from the Crusader’s onslaught. It was so interesting to discover that most of what you seen in Jerusalem dates to the Middle Ages. Little is left from Biblical times. That was a shock to me. I guess I had imagined that some of the places mentioned in the Bible would be there for me to see. Jerusalem has been conquered, divided, and destroyed by so many people across the centuries. Historically, it is a melting pot of the Jews, Greeks, Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Muslims, Crusaders, British … The city is divided into sections: Jewish, Muslim, Christian, and Armenian. Narrow, winding, and cobblestone streets are lined with colorful bougainvillea. Kids still play in the streets here. It does feel a little like taking a step back in time … that is until you reach the souq! Here they sell everything and anything a tourist could want -- ceramics, towels, jewelry, illegal DVD’s, glowing Jesus figurines, postcards … All the vendors beckon for you to come and take a little look their shops. It would be easy to get lost here.

From the souqs we headed to the Wailing Wall and the Dome of the Rock. These are 2 of the most holy places in major world religions. And although the Islamic and Jewish faiths are opposing forces, these sites are no more than 100 yards from each other. This is place where both Muslims and Jews believe that Abraham attempted to offer his son (Ishmael and Isaac, respectively) as a sacrifice to God. Incredible security to get close to the Wailing Wall which dates to the Herodian Temple of Jesus’ time. It is all that the Jews have left of their temple period. And they are out in mass, praying. Men are separated from the women. They approach the wall reverently with heads covered. Touching the wall, they begin to pray nodding their head to some internal rhythm. Some write prayer requests on small scraps of paper which are crammed into cracks in the wall. I don’t quite understand it. It seems that they have been grieving for the loss of their temple for 2000 years. Sitting above the Wailing Wall is the Dome of the Rock Mosque. Muslims believe that Mohammed ascended into heaven here, leaving a footprint on a holy rock (now at the center of the mosque). A mosque was built here to commemorate the event over 1500 years ago. The mosque seems to be the pinnacle of Jerusalem with its golden dome and brightly decorated mosaics. As non-Muslims and tourists, we were not allowed to enter the mosque.

Other sites we visited in Jerusalem included the Church of the Holy Sepulcher which Christians believe marks the spot of Golgotha. There were beautiful mosaics inside dating to the Byzantine period. We walked down the Via Dolorosa and outside the city to the Garden of Gethsemane and Mount of Olives. Hills, hills, and more hills everywhere. Hard to believe that this is place where Jesus came to share his final hours with his friends. There is a beautiful church built in the Garden of Gethsemane. The Mount of Olives was covered with white tombstones. All the olive trees must have been ripped out. Supposedly, conservative Jews believe that the Messiah will descend to earth at this place and raise the dead here first. Everyone want to be the first in line! With our day winding down in Jerusalem, we headed back to Ashkelon. Dusty, dirty, and weary. I think that I literally walked my feet off in Jerusalem. Now we just have the rest of Israel to check out.

Mitzpah Ramon & Avdat -- Our next big stop in Israel was Avdat, an ancient city built by the Nabateans and Mitzpah Ramon which looked like a smaller version of the Grand Canyon and SW USA. Avdat was a surprise find in the middle of the desert. Like most things in Israel, it had been conquered and used by many different peoples -- Romans, Nabateans, Byzantines … The Nabateans were traders who worked the Spice Route from the Far East. Avdat was one of their important way stations. There were ruins of old temples, churches, homes, and military encampments. But the fun part was the caves dug out of the soft limestone and used for homes, They were pretty fancy with arches, built in shelves, fireplaces, and connecting rooms. From Avdat, we headed to Mitzpah Ramon a huge canyon in the Negev Desert. It is actually part of the Rift Valley which starts in Kenya and ends in Syria. Amazing rock formations and cliff faces here! We made it into town just as the sun was beginning to go down and jumped on the opportunity for a personalized tour from our hotel manager. We got to see some of the desert wildlife up close and personal, including eagles and pesky ibex (like goats, but with bigger horns). The next morning we headed further south to make our jump across the border to Jordan.

Dead Sea, Masada, Qumran -- The area surrounding the Dead Sea is absolutely desolate in terms of relief, but rich with history. Biblical scholars and archeologists say that the cities of Sodom and Gomorrah were somewhere around here. The valley where the Dead Sea sits is the lowest point on earth -- over 400 meters below sea level! The Dead Sea is so salty, that nothing can live in it. As you drive down into the valley, the smell of sulphor and other mineral salts becomes stronger and stronger. We had the chance to take a dip, and let me tell ya, it was unlike anything I have ever experienced. Because of the high salinity, you float like a beach ball! No need to paddle or kick (which David soon discovered). The water seems to coat your body in a layer of slime. The one thing you don’t want to do while in the water is get any in your eye or mouth. It stings like you would not believe!! The ancients believed that the water had healing properties. That belief seems to have caught on, as the Israelis are building numerous hotels and spas around the Sea and have a whole line of beauty products based on the Dead Sea minerals.

Around the Dead Sea are some important historical sites, including Masada and Qumran. Masada is known for being the center of Jewish resistance to the Romans. In 70 AD, the Roman Emperor had destroyed Jerusalem and the Temple. Many freedom fighters fled to Masada which had originally been King Herod’s desert palace and fortress high atop a plateau overlooking the Dead Sea. After 3 years of resistance, the Romans tired of Masada’s rebels and they laid siege to the fortress. The Roman soldiers built camps around the base of the plateau and began to build a ramp up the 450 meter tall cliff face. The Jewish freedom fighters hope began to crumble and so their leader convinced them that death would be better than torture, rape, and slavery. Over 900 people committed suicide, except for 5 women and 2 children who hid in a cistern. The Roman soldiers entered only to find absolute silence and death.

Qumran is the place where the Dead Sea Scrolls were in found in 1947. A Bedouin shepherd was looking for his ship in the cliffs above the Dead Sea. When he threw a stone into one of the many caves that lined the cliff, he heard the sound of pottery breaking. The scrolls had been hidden in jars for over 2000 years by a little known Jewish sect called the Essenes. Some scholars believe that John the Baptist may have been an Essene. The scrolls contained books of the Old Testament, the Apocrypha, and the sect’s own laws for communal living, ritual bathing and purity. When excavations began, archeologists found early structures, such as dining rooms, cisterns, pottery shops, kitchens, and writing room.

Bet Guvrin, Jordan River, & Sea of Galilee -- Bet Guvrin is a national park that contains a number of different settlements: Biblical, Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine cities. The settlements were a combination of above and below ground structures. One of the most fascinating was the Columbarium Cave which housed over 2000 pigeons. It had been dug out of the soft limestone bedrock into the shape of a double cross during 4^th-3^rd century BC. The pigeons were used for food and cultic purposes, while their droppings were used as fertilizer. Additionally underground were large cisterns, baths, olive press, and homes. The Bell caves were quarries formed during the Byzantine and Islamic periods by cutting a small hole in the surface of the earth and then slowly cutting down to form a huge bell shaped cavern. There was so much here to see that we were not able to get around to all of it -- Roman amphitheatres, churches, fortress, tombs, and bathhouses.

Making our way north, we stopped at the Jordan River. The Jordan River is where the Israelites crossed to go to Jericho and where Jesus was baptized. They actually have a baptismal site set up for church groups. When we arrived there was a large group from Capital Christian Center in Sacramento being baptized. Everyone there was so excited and joyful, singing worship songs, and smiling. We took a few pictures and watched. David got to talking with some of the church members and decided that he was going to baptized right then and there! The church family welcomed him with open arms, so he ran off to find a baptismal gown and towel. One of the ladies there encouraged me to join David in baptism and that struck me as a wonderful idea. What better way, as a couple, to commit our relationship to God and to grow spiritually together. So then I ran off to find a baptismal gown and towel. The clock was ticking down. Well, needless to say, at a tourist site things get a little pricey. They wanted 26 shekels (roughly $6) for the rental. David didn’t have any money, so he begged a sopping wet towel and unused gown off one of the church members who had just gotten baptized. I rented my gown and towel and then we headed to the water. What a happy event! David shared a little bit about our trip and who we were, and then the pastors gave us the plunge! The funny part of all this was that Dave was manning the video camera. That is normally David’s job. In his excitement, Dave hit the wrong button on the video camera just as we were about to be dunked in the water. So does the evidence of our baptism exist?! Thank you so much to all the members of the Capital Christian Center who encouraged us to be baptized and opened your loving arms! You all made it a very special moment. How wonderful to be able to share this experience with our brothers and sisters in Christ halfway around the world. Someday, David and I will have to come and visit you in Sacramento.

From the Jordan River, we headed to Tiberius on the Sea of Galilee. This is the area that Jesus really called home. He spent most of ministry in the surrounding area. If was so neat to see the environment that may have shaped his upbringing and influenced his teachings and parables. Being here really brought the Bible to life in a new way. Christians have been coming to Galilee for centuries. Surrounding the Sea of Galilee are a number of sites dedicated to the Sermon on the Mount (or Beatitudes), the feeding of the 5000, Jesus calming the storm and walking on water, the healing of the demon possessed … and many more. Some of these sites have been marked with century old churches and monasteries. This is definitely an area that I would love to visit again.

Golan Heights, Nimrod Fortress, & Caesarea -- The last part of our trip explored the northern part of Israel. We drove up into the Golan Heights that borders Syria and Lebanon. This is of course an area of much tension. But the settlements and developments are going up everywhere. What surprised me was how beautiful it was with snow capped Mount Hermon in the distance and rolling hills. Agriculture is in full bloom here. There were orchards and vineyards everywhere -- apples, pears, apricots, oranges, mangos, figs, dates … Impressive!

Sitting high in the hills of the Golan Heights was the Nimrod Fortress built by the Muslims to defend themselves against the Christian Crusaders. It was the perfect castle for the Middle Ages overlooking the fertile Hula Valley. Thick walls, secret passages, towers, dungeons … It was a stronghold that lasted for hundreds of years, until the Mongols swooped out from the Ural-Altai plains, defeated the Mukluk defenders, and attempted to tear down the fortress. They didn’t have much luck though and a good portion of the fortress remains intact.

Finally, heading back to the coast we drove through the Valley of Armageddon, Nazareth, the Mount of Transfiguration, and many other Biblical sites. Our last stop was in Caesarea where King Herod built an aqueduct right on the shores of the Mediterranean. The aqueduct carried water over 8 miles into the city of Caesarea from mountains in the north. It was an unparalleled accomplishment in ancient times honoring Caesar Augustus who was King Herod‘s patron. Amazing that the structure is still standing today with its graceful arches.

Over a period of 5 days we traveled from north to south in Israel. Whew, it had me worn out! But we had the chance to see some amazing things and learn so much about Israel and its past. With everything that we missed, we could plan a whole other road trip!

Jordan & Petra

On our first road trip to Avdat and Mitzpah Ramon, we continued south towards the Gulf of Aqaba and the Jordanian border. Our goal was to reach the ancient city of Petra which is one of the wonders of the modern world! We crossed the border early in the morning, were questioned about our visits to other Muslim countries (the 18 year old Israeli immigration gal just could not understand how we could sail up the Red Sea, visit so many countries, and then end up on the Jordanian border … we had to explain each and every one of our stamps to her), had our luggage searched, and passport stamped. A hundred yard dash with bags bouncing all around and we crossed the border into Jordan! The process was more or less repeated on the Jordanian side and we were off with our faithful taxi driver, Osama.

We delved into the Jordanian desert, to a beautiful place called Wadi Rum. Amazing rock formations were created by ancient glaciers and oceans, then the wind. It was like being in another world to see these towering red sandstone cliffs and boulders set against sand dunes. One could even see the occasional camel or Bedouin meandering by. The Bedouins still live here in their camel hair tents with their goats and sheep, living just as they have for hundreds of years. Only now, they have pick-up trucks to zip around in! A few of them came by to check out the tourists taking pictures. You may recognize pictures of Wadi Rum because this area was used as a movie set for the classic Lawrence of Arabia. I could see that Dave, Donna, and David were chomping on the bit seeing all this vast desert. They were in their element (after 18 years of living in the Saudi Arabian sands) and thinking about 4x4 trips with their Land Rover Defender, camping behind sloping sand dunes and dry riverbeds, and searching for Paleolithic artifacts. Perhaps they will have to come back someday and check it all out.

We were off again for the high plains and the mountains. Petra was the capital city of the Nabatean Empire which lasted for over 800 years. The Nabateans were traders who controlled the Spice route from Asia to Europe. Petra was a cultural melting pot. The Nabateans incorporated the beliefs, culture, and architectural style of their neighbors. The city had theatres, tombs, paved roads, churches, temples, water systems, agricultural terraces … Eventually, the Nabateans came under the domination of the Romans 106 AD, but the city continued to flourish through the Byzantine period. When Islam took over the Middle East, the city fell into oblivion and was lost for over 1500 years. In 1812, a European explorer disguised as an Arab persuaded some Bedouins to show him the lost city. He was absolutely flabbergasted by the beauty of the city. Petra is carved into red sandstone cliff faces of the Jordanian desert. “Match me such a marvel save in Eastern clime / A rose red city half as old as time.” (Poet Dean Burgon) Tucked away in winding canyons, it is easy to understand why this city was hidden for over one thousand years. We had an amazing time exploring this place. I was as awestruck as those early explorers at the beauty and the brilliance of the construction. You may recognize Petra from its brief appearance in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

To enter Petra one must transit a narrow and winding gorge called As-Siq. Along the edge of the walls is an aqueduct that brought water into the heart of the city. You can still see carvings and statues on the wall that have been worn away by the wind and water. You walk down this narrow corridor for 2 km and then suddenly it opens up and you can see the Treasury (of Indiana Jones fame). This beautiful building was carved out of the rock in 1^st century BC as a tomb for an important king. Architecturally, they incorporated Greek style with huge columns, capitals, and statues.  As you continue down the corridor, the gorge opens even wider to a valley of sorts. On either side are tombs and temples -- the Avenue of Facades, some incomplete, other worn away by time. And then, carved into solid rock is the impressive amphitheatre that seated 7000 people. It took over 20 years to build. There were temples to visit, plazas, and tombs. The sandstone was beautiful in shades of red, white, and yellow swirling together. The piece de resistance was probably the Monastery. One had to walk up a flight of over 800 steps up the mountain of Ad-Deir. I huffed and puffed my way up the steps with David and Dave, while Donna took a donkey. The Monastery is a huge temple carved out of the rocks with domes, statues, columns, and large rooms. In the Byzantine period, archeologists believe that it may have served as a church.

The interesting thing about Petra is that the Bedouin have used it for years and continue to use it. About 15 years ago the Jordanian government tried to move the Bedouin out of the caves in Petra and built a village nearby. But many of the Bedouin remain in a “tourist” capacity. They sell postcards, t-shirts, and artifacts. They come to Petra on their donkeys, camels, and horses to offer a ride to weary walkers for “a very good price”. Some of the Bedouin still seem to use the caves for their livestock. Six hours of hoofing it around Petra and my legs felt like jelly. But I resisted the urge to grab a carriage ride for the 5 km walk back. What an amazing place! We saw most everything and yet I feel as though there must be more to see and to understand. If you ever get the chance to visit Petra, you will truly love this 8^th wonder of the world!